Rolex Reference 1600 vs 1601 vs 1603: comparing icons

Key Stats & Differences

Here’s the quick-glance breakdown before we dive deeper into history, specs, materials, colors and value.

History & Origins

Rolex Datejust reference 1600: Minimalistic

Launched around 1960, the Datejust with reference 1600 strips the Datejust to its core. Same 36 mm Oyster case and Cyclops date, but with a smooth, polished steel bezel for pure, understated style. The coolest thing about the 1600? You could opt for the folded Oyster-bracelet, or folded Jubilee. Both super comfortable, but the Jubilee just hits a bit different.

Rolex Datejust reference 1601: The Archetype

Early ’60s, Jubilee bracelet, fluted gold bezel, pie-pan dial. The reference 1601 is the Datejust most people picture. It bridged sport and dress, offered in steel with white gold, two-tone, and solid gold, often with the most premium dials of the trio. It’s one of the most sought-after vintage watches, especially for starters in the market. No surprise, with that white gold bezel.

Rolex Datejust reference 1603: The Steel Rebel

Introduced in 1960, The Datejust 1603 kept the steel case but added an engine-turned steel bezel: textured, sporty, and more tool-like than gold fluting. Less chased than the 1601 yet produced in solid numbers. It remains an under-the-radar choice with rugged charm and strong value.

Production Years & Technical Evolution

The 16xx family arrived around 1960 and stayed in rotation until the late ’70s, with a few stragglers sold into the early ’80s. The 1600 with its smooth-bezel was produced roughly from 1960 to 1977. The 1601, with its instantly recognizable fluted gold bezel, enjoyed the longest run, stretching from circa 1960 to 1981 and outlasting its siblings by a few years. The 1603, the steel-engine-turned maverick, held court from around 1960 to 1978. Even after official discontinuation, unsold stock trickled out of dealers’ cases into the early ’80s, meaning it wasn’t unusual to see a “brand new” 16xx on a wrist years after production had officially wrapped.

All three started life with the Caliber 1565 (18.000 vph), then graduated in the mid-’60s to the Caliber 1575 (19.800 vph): a higher beat rate for smoother seconds and improved accuracy. In 1972, Rolex added hacking seconds, a feature where pulling out the crown halts the second hand. It sounds minor, but for anyone syncing to a reference clock or matching time with military precision, it was a game-changer.

Quickset date? Not yet. That would come with the 5-digit 16xxx series in the late ’70s, along with the new Caliber 3035. Until then, your midnight date change was instant, but any adjustment meant a lot of crown turning.

Case Sizes, Materials & Personality

Same bones across the board: 36 mm Oyster case, drilled-through lugs, screw-down crown, acrylic crystal (plexiglass) with the Cyclops date magnifier. Originally rated for 100 meters, though vintage examples today deserve a cautious dip at best.

The 1600 came mostly in stainless steel, topped with its signature smooth polished bezel. Steel-and-gold Rolesor versions did exist, but they’re far from common, and the examples in solid yellow (1600/8) or rose gold ones are even more elusive.

The 1601 was the chameleon of the trio in terms of materials. Most were stainless steel with a white gold fluted bezel (1601/4), but two-tone yellow gold/steel (1601/3) was a strong seller, and rose gold/steel popped up in far smaller numbers. Full yellow gold (1601/8), white gold (1601/9) or rose gold (1601/5) pieces are out there too, with the occasional pink gold Rolesor surfacing to keep collectors on their toes.

The 1603 followed the 1600’s all-steel formula but swapped in its engine-turned steel bezel. Rolesor variants pairing steel with yellow gold were produced as well, though spotting one today is a rarer sight.

Bracelet choice? All three came on Jubilee or Oyster configurations, but not the solid-link Jubilees you see on modern Rolex. These were the vintage folded-link bracelets, lighter on the wrist with a touch more rattle, and part of the charm for purists. The Jubilee was by far the more common choice across the 16xx family and was the natural partner for the 1601, while the 1600 and 1603 were somewhat more likely to appear on the sportier Oyster. While you’ll see far more Jubilees on the market today, folded-link Oysters with correct end links were a perfectly normal option back then. They’re just harder to find now, which is why they rarely pop up on the grey market.

On rare occasions, a solid gold 1601 would leave the factory on a President bracelet, a configuration far less common than on the Day-Date but undeniably regal when found.

Today, many examples surface on leather straps, either as a collector’s choice for a different aesthetic or simply because the original bracelet wore out decades ago. These strap-fitted watches can be bought for a little less than their full-bracelet counterparts.

Dials & Variations

The fun starts here in my opinion. Standard colors ran silver, champagne, black, blue, and grey, many with the beloved pie-pan profile: a gentle slope toward the chapter ring that adds depth and shadow play.

Then there are the collector dials:

• Linen dial: a woven-like texture that dances in changing light. It can be found in silver, grey and champagne colored texture.
• Sigma dial: tiny σ marks flanking “Swiss” at 6 o’clock, signaling gold hour markers and hands.
• Tropical dial: UV-aged tones morphing into warm browns. All kinds of patterns can be found.
• Buckley dial: painted Roman numerals and matching hands, mainly found on the ref 1603.
• Gilt dial: originally black, but over time many have faded to a warm brown with golden undertones and fine speckling, creating the sought-after gilt look that’s nearly impossible to find in perfect condition.

The 1601 saw the most luxe options, including diamond markers and rare stone dials like lapis, malachite or tiger’s eye (usually on solid gold cases). The 1603 often wore moodier tones and bolder index styles, while the 1600 kept things stripped and classic.

Price & Value Trends

When it comes to value, condition and originality rule the game. But dial rarity can swing prices just as hard. The figures below show typical market ranges for clean examples, with the special dial premium reflecting the extra collectors will pay for configurations like linen, sigma, tropical, or rare stone dials on the full gold 1601 references. 

This is just a general guideline. Ofcourse there are outliers and special cases. 

What moves the needle:

• Original dial, hands, bezel, bracelet
• Case condition and patina
• Rare configurations (linen, sigma, tropical, gilt, stone dials)
• Full set with box and papers

Best choice in the trio?

In terms of investment I would say a 1601 paired with a killer dial (linen, sigma, or a well-aged tropical) has historically seen the strongest appreciation. You’re getting the archetypal Datejust look plus a layer of collectibility that the market consistently rewards.

If I were hunting for another vintage Datejust without budget limits, I’d go straight for a 1601 with a linen dial. Full stop. I already own a ’72 1601 from the first batch with hacking seconds, and it’s a joy. That linen texture, the way it shifts and catches light, keeps pulling me back. Still, the 1603 has its quiet charm. The engine-turned bezel doesn’t get the same love, which makes it the perfect home for a gilt black dial if you want to stay under the radar. Choosing between them isn’t easy, but it’s the kind of dilemma collectors enjoy.

Wearability

All three share the same 36 mm Oyster case, so on paper they wear the same. The difference is in the character wrapped around it. Bracelet choice plays a big role: the Jubilee is pure comfort, the Oyster is go-anywhere capable. Can’t decide? If the budget allows, all three together still come in cheaper than a modern Datejust 36.

The Blueprint of Modern Datejusts

The 1601 is, in many ways, the daddy of the Datejusts. Sure, the first model appeared in the mid-’40s, but this is the watch that really put Rolex on the map. Put a modern DJ36 with a silver dial next to a vintage 1601 and, aside from the movement, quickset date, and a slightly thicker case, they’re near twins. The 1601 became the blueprint for today’s models like the steel/white gold variants like 16234, 116234 and 126234. But also for the everose and yellow gold Rolesor follow-ups. The 1600 set the path for smooth-bezel references such as the 116200 and 126200 and the other sizes with smooth-bezel, while the 1603’s direct lineage was limited to the 16030 and 16220.

1600 vs 1601 vs 1603 summary

Quick take:

• 1600: understated, all-steel, perfect daily vintage Rolex.
• 1601: the archetype, especially in steel/white gold with a killer dial.
• 1603: stealth choice with texture; usually a better deal than the 1601.

Closing Thoughts

Same movement. Same case size. Same Rolex DNA. Yet the three vintage Datejust references couldn’t be more different in vibe. Whether you’re drawn to the 1600’s clean lines, the 1601’s timeless sparkle, or the 1603’s steel swagger, you’re looking at a slice of Rolex history that wears just as well today as it did fifty years ago.