Steel Rolex Submariner Buyer’s Guide: 4-digit to modern

Why the Rolex Submariner Became the Benchmark Dive Watch

The Submariner earned its reputation by doing exactly what it promised: being a reliable professional dive watch. Its design proved so balanced that it barely needed reinvention.

The Submariner No-Date represents the purest expression of this idea: time-only, symmetrical, and purpose-built. The Submariner Date expanded that concept, transforming the watch into an everyday companion without sacrificing its tool-watch roots. Together, they form the backbone of Rolex’s sports-watch legacy.

Rolex Submariner Date vs No-Date: A Real Buyer’s Comparison

The difference between the models is more than a date window. The Date version adds the Cyclops magnifier, making the watch more practical for daily use. The No-Date removes visual clutter, preserving perfect dial symmetry, which is one of the strongest arguments collectors make in its favor.

From a market perspective, Submariner Dates are generally easier to resell and trade at higher volumes. No-Date models tend to attract purists and long-term holders. Historically, both perform well, but Date models show stronger liquidity, while No-Dates command respect among seasoned collectors. Our favorite? The Submariner No-Date. And we’ll get to the exact reference later on.

Vintage Submariners (4-Digit References)

Early 4-digit Submariners are considered true tool watches. Acrylic crystals, aluminum bezels, slim cases, and matte dials define this era.

Both Date and No-Date versions share tritium lume and hand-finished details that modern models lack. These vintage Submariners wear lighter and smaller, but they demand careful ownership. Originality matters more than reference numbers at this level. Same goes for box and papers, originality is key when opting for a 4-digit Sub.

Submariner 1680 (Date) vs 5513 (No-Date)

The Submariner 1680 introduced the date complication. Early “Red Sub” examples are among the most collectible vintage Rolex sports watches. Yes, we know. There are earlier Submariner’s around, but these are at a price-point we won’t be discussing.

The Submariner 5513 is its No-Date counterpart: simpler, more symmetrical, and equally iconic. Collectors often choose between historical significance (1680) and design purity (5513). When it comes to Plexy Submariners, the 5513 is probably the all-time favorite.

Rolex Submariner 5512 (No-Date)

Often overlooked next to the 5513, the 5512 is historically crucial. It was the first Submariner to receive a chronometer-certified movement, making it the original “Superlative Chronometer” Submariner. Produced in lower numbers and featuring four lines of dial text, the 5512 is rarer and often more expensive than the 5513. For collectors, it represents the bridge between pure tool watch and precision instrument.

Neo-Vintage & Transitional Models (5-Digit References)

With sapphire crystals and upgraded movements, 5-digit Submariners offer the best balance between vintage aesthetics and modern reliability. These are the perfectly balanced watches for daily wear: sapphire crystals, aluminium bezels, possibly even warm patina on the dial and a slimmer profile compared to the modern watches from Rolex. This applies to both the Date and No-Date versions, making this generation especially popular.

Between the vintage 4-digit era and the modern ceramic Submariners lies a group of transitional references that quietly define the Submariner’s evolution. These watches combine old-school proportions with important technical upgrades, and for many collectors, this is where the sweet spot lies. Another thing to keep an eye on: Rolex has transitional models. And thus, there could be some visible interchange of parts on a Sub. Year of Production isn’t key, condition is.

Rolex Submariner 16800 (Date)

The 16800 is one of the most important Submariners ever made. It introduced the sapphire crystal, quickset date, and higher beat movement (28.800 vph vs 19.800), while retaining an aluminum bezel and classic proportions. Early examples even feature matte dials, making them especially attractive. This reference marks the true transition from vintage to modern Rolex.

Rolex Submariner 168000 (Date)

Produced for a very short period, the 168000 is nearly identical to the 16800 but uses upgraded steel (904L instead of 316L). It’s a detail most buyers will never notice, but collectors appreciate its rarity and short production run.

Submariner 16610 (Date)

The Rolex Submariner 16610 is often called the most versatile Submariner ever made. Aluminum bezel, classic proportions, and strong resale demand define it. It looks like the modern Sub, but it carries some more charm on the lumen plots and hands. With the drilled lug-holes, the 16610 is a true strap-swapper: on nato, leather and steel, this Submariner just hits differently.

Rolex Submariner 14060 vs 14060M (No-Date)

The Rolex Submariner 14060 and later 14060M retain the same case but drop the date and Cyclops. These are widely considered the last “classic” No-Date Submariners before the ceramic era, and thus popular by collectors.

The 14060 started with a two-line dial (non-chronometer), preserving the pure tool-watch aesthetic. The later 14060M introduced a chronometer-certified movement and four-line dial. Two-line examples are generally favored by purists, while four-line versions appeal to buyers who want certification without moving to ceramics.

Our pick? Usually, we tend to lean towards the No-Date due to the clean look without the cyclops. But when it comes to the neo-vintage models, my absolute favorite would be the 16610 with a slightly faded bezel turning blue, glossy dial and SuperLuminova applied hour-markers.

Modern Ceramic Submariners (6-Digit References)

A true turning point in the Submariner history and catalog: the 6-digit came with ceramic bezels (Cerachrom to be exact, made from ceramic and chrome) which improved scratch resistance, colors became permanent (unfortunately) and the bracelets gained modern clasps with on-the-fly adjustment. Both the Submariner Date and No Date adopted the Maxi-Case, with the broader lugs, adding wrist presence but also sparking debate amongst collectors and purists.

116610 / 126610 (Date) vs 114060 / 124060 (No-Date)

The Rolex Submariner 116610 and 126610 differ mainly in movement and case refinement. The newer 3235 movement offers longer power reserve and improved efficiency. The main difference in the movement is 70-hour power reserve compared to 48 hours, but the case is truly something else. While the 116610 measures 40mm, it tends to wear bigger compared to the 41mm 126610 due to slimmer lugs and the wider bracelet.

On the No-Date side, the Rolex Submariner 114060 and 124060 deliver the same upgrades without the Cyclops. The 124060, in particular, is praised for its refined proportions. Our pick? The 124060, even though it's a 41mm case, but it wears slimmer on the wrist. So if you’re opting for a modern Submariner, pick the newest reference. You’ll thank yourself later.

Collectible Submariners

Rolex rarity is driven by discontinuation, not production limits. All watches are collectible (at some point), but there are some watches within the Submariner catalog that stand out. Such as the green Submariners: Kermit, Hulk and Starbucks.

The Submariner Kermit (16610LV)

At first, the reference differs from the 16610LN: LN means Lunette Noir, while LV means Lunette Verde (green). So, the Kermit features the aluminum green bezel. Which is simply amazing. We’ve already got an exciting article on the green Subs, by the way.

The Submariner Hulk (116610LV)

Again, the reference differs. The maxi-case Submariner with a green bezel (ceramic this time) and a green dial. You probably get where its name ‘Hulk’ is coming from. And thus highly collectable, since it got discontinued.

The Submariner Starbucks (116610LV)

The Submariner ‘Starbucks’ (126610LV) is the modern evolution of the green Sub: still in production, featuring a green ceramic bezel, black dial, and Rolex’s latest movement. It echoes the Kermit’s layout but with a modern twist.

We’ve written a full break-down on the Hulk, Kermit and Starbucks already, so read that if you’re into colored Submariners.

Submariner Movements Explained

Movements are rarely visible, but they have a major impact on ownership experience, service costs, and long-term reliability.

Vintage & Neo-Vintage Movements (Cal. 1520, 1530, 3000, 3130, 3135)

These calibers are known for robustness and ease of servicing. Parts are widely available, independent watchmakers can work on them, and service costs remain relatively reasonable. Accuracy is solid, but power reserves are shorter (around 48 hours). Many collectors prefer these movements for their simplicity and proven longevity.

Modern Movements (Cal. 3230 & 3235)

Introduced with the latest generation Submariners, these movements offer a 70-hour power reserve, improved efficiency, and enhanced shock resistance. They are highly accurate and ideal for daily wear, but servicing is more expensive and usually restricted to Rolex or authorized centers. From a purely practical standpoint, they are superior — from a collector standpoint, opinions are more divided.

Chronometer vs Non-Chronometer (2-line vs 4-line dials)

Four-line dials indicate chronometer certification. While this matters on paper, condition and originality usually matter more than certification when it comes to long-term value, especially on vintage and neo-vintage pieces.

Case, Lugs & Bracelet: Why Submariners Wear So Differently

Much of the Submariner debate isn’t about diameter, but about proportions. A breakdown:

Case Thickness

• Vintage 4-digit Submariners: approx. 13mm
• 5-digit references: approx. 12.5mm
• 6-digit ceramic models: approx. 13mm, but with more visual mass

Despite similar thickness, ceramic models feel larger due to case shape.

Lug Width

• 4-digit & 5-digit Submariners: 20mm
• 6-digit Submariners: 21mm

That single millimeter changes strap options and wrist presence more than most buyers expect.

Bracelet Taper

• Vintage & 5-digit: strong taper (20mm → ~16mm), elegant and light
• Ceramic era: wider bracelets with less taper, increasing stability and perceived size

This is why many collectors feel modern Submariners wear larger, even when dimensions seem similar on paper.

Rolex Submariner Reference Table (Date & No-Date)

Conclusion and our favorites

We’ve written this buyer’s guide to guide you through all the different steel Submariner watches on our marketplace. Since there’s too many to choose from, and hoping you only need one. So, what’s the one you’re picking? If you’re into modern watches, the newest reference is the go-to pick. You can decide on whether you want a clean dial without the date, or the Cyclops. That’s personal. But, the wearability of the latest reference 126 is way better compared to the older one.

Rather have something with more charm? A plexi 5513 would be our pick. But, it needs a bit more love compared to the 16610 or 14060, so that would probably be a better pick if you’re planning to wear it as a daily watch. When it comes to pricing, the 16610 is pretty affordable right now, and would be the best all-round pick.

Frequently Asked Buyer Questions About the Rolex Submariner (Date & No-Date)

Is the Submariner Date or No-Date better for first-time Rolex buyers?

Most first-time buyers gravitate toward the Submariner Date because it feels more practical for daily wear and is easier to resell. The No-Date is often chosen later by collectors who already understand why symmetry and simplicity matter to them.

Does the Cyclops lens really scratch or fall off?

Scratching is rare. The Cyclops is sapphire, just like the crystal. It can be damaged by extreme impact, but detachment is extremely uncommon and usually linked to improper aftermarket work, not normal wear.

Which Submariner holds value better: Date or No-Date?

Historically, Date models are more liquid and easier to sell quickly. No-Date models can perform just as well long term, but usually reward patient collectors rather than short-term traders.

Are modern ceramic Submariners too bulky compared to older ones?

They wear larger due to broader lugs, not case diameter. Many buyers find modern models more comfortable thanks to improved bracelets and clasps, even if they prefer the slimmer look of 5-digit or vintage references.

Is the Rolex Submariner actually used for diving today?

Yes, but rarely. Most owners use it as a daily sports watch. That said, modern Submariners are genuinely dive-ready and meet professional ISO standards. Desk-diving is possible with the Sub.

Can I daily wear a vintage Submariner?

You can, but it’s a choice. Vintage Submariners handle daily wear if serviced correctly, but water resistance, tritium lume, and acrylic crystals require more care. Many owners rotate them rather than wearing them full time.

What matters more when buying pre-owned: box and papers or condition?

Condition always matters more. A sharp, unpolished case without box and papers is usually preferable to a heavily polished example with full set, unless resale timing is your main goal.

Is polishing always bad?

No, but over-polishing is. Light, sympathetic polishing during a correct service is acceptable. Loss of case geometry and rounded lugs permanently reduces value, especially on vintage and neo-vintage references.

Are green Submariners harder or more expensive to service?

No. Movements and parts are the same as standard Submariners. The only potential cost difference is bezel replacement, especially for discontinued green references.

Why do prices vary so much for the same reference?

Because reference numbers tell only part of the story. Condition, originality, service parts, polishing history, bracelet stretch, dial variation, and market timing all influence price, often more than the reference itself.

Is bracelet stretch a serious problem?

On older models, yes. Stretch affects comfort and value. Modern ceramic-era bracelets are significantly more robust and rarely suffer from meaningful stretch.

Are No-Date Submariners rarer than Date models?

In modern production, yes. No-Date models are produced in lower volumes. In vintage references, availability depends more on condition and originality than raw production numbers.

Which Submariner is easiest to resell?

Steel Submariner Date models, especially black dial versions, are consistently the easiest to sell due to broad demand and buyer familiarity.

Do service replacement parts hurt value?

They can. Service dials, hands, or bezel inserts reduce collector value on vintage and neo-vintage pieces. For modern Submariners, service parts matter far less, unless originality is a priority.

Is buying “unpolished” always worth paying extra for?

Usually, yes, especially for collectors. Sharp case lines preserve the watch’s original geometry and future value. However, for daily wearers, lightly polished examples can offer better value.

Should I buy the Submariner Date or No-Date if I only plan to own one watch?

If you want maximum versatility and ease of ownership, choose the Date. If design purity and long-term collecting appeal matter more than practicality, the No-Date is hard to beat.