Rolex Milgauss: the history and tech behind the Anti-Magnetic Icon

A Brief History of Anti-Magnetism and the Birth of the Milgauss

The Rolex Milgauss launched in 1956, built specifically for engineers and scientists working in high-magnetic environments, places like CERN and power plants, where magnetism could interfere with mechanical timekeeping. The name? “Mil” means a thousand, and “Gauss” is a unit of magnetism. So yes, this Rolex was built to resist magnetic fields up to 1,000 gauss. It did so thanks to a soft iron Faraday cage inside the case that shielded the movement from magnetic interference. That tech still makes it one of the most practical tool watches ever created, even if you’re not splitting atoms. The first references, like the 6541 and 1019, looked quite different from today’s version. But the DNA was always there: clean dial, smooth bezel, and the unmistakable feeling that this wasn’t your average Rolex.

The Comeback: Ref. 116400 and the Green Glass Phenomenon

After being discontinued in the late ‘80s, the Milgauss made a surprising return in 2007 with the reference 116400. And Rolex didn’t just bring it back quietly. They added a wild twist: a green-tinted sapphire crystal. No logo, no signature, just green glass, exclusive to the Milgauss. The official name? Glace Verte. They also brought back the lightning bolt seconds hand in bright orange, a callback to the original 1950s model. Inside was the Caliber 3131, featuring Rolex’s COSC-certified movement, Parachrom-Blu hairspring, full magnetic shielding, and 904L stainless steel case. Water resistant to 100 meters, 40mm in size, and without a date complication, it was clean, balanced, and bold. The Z-Blue dial version, introduced later, added another layer of personality, sunburst electric blue dial, orange markers, green glass. It was a watch that looked like nothing else in the lineup. And it wore beautifully, especially if you wanted a Rolex that nobody else at the table had. Prices for the Z-Blue version start around €12.000 and climbing, especially now that it's off the market.

Wearing the Milgauss Today

I’ve worn the Milgauss a couple of times. It’s heavier than you expect at around 157 grams, thanks to the internal shield, and the polished center links on the Oyster bracelet give it just the right amount of flash. It feels different from something like the Submariner or Explorer. More self-aware. Quieter, but not shy. And that’s the point. The Milgauss isn’t trying to be a tool watch. It’s trying to be a thinking man’s Rolex. It’s the kind of piece you buy when you already know what the Daytona or GMT are all about, and you want something left-field. Something with brains and just the right amount of attitude.

Is the Rolex Milgauss Discontinued?

Yes. In 2023, Rolex quietly discontinued the Milgauss. And just like that, demand surged. Prices on the secondary market started climbing, especially for the Z-Blue and green glass references. You won’t find it at Rolex authorized dealers anymore, which only adds to its appeal. Collectors finally seemed to realize what we always knew: the Milgauss was never just a sideshow. It was a sleeper hit. Does that mean you should rush to grab one? Not necessarily. But it does mean that if you’ve been eyeing one, now’s the time to act before prices rise even further.

How the Milgauss Compares to Other Rolex Models

People often ask: Milgauss or Submariner? Explorer or Milgauss? And honestly, it depends. The Submariner is a classic, sure. But the Milgauss has character. No rotating bezel, no date, just pure, clean lines and a design that feels like it came from a lab bench, not a beach. Compared to the Explorer, the Milgauss is dressier, shinier, and a bit more eccentric. You don’t wear it to disappear, you wear it to stand out quietly. And if you’re the kind of person who likes your Rolex with a story, there’s nothing else quite like it. I think the Milgauss has something special: it's not trying to be everything for everyone, and that’s exactly the charm. I’ve always liked that it doesn’t scream for attention, but still turns heads. It’s the kind of watch that feels like it was made for people who actually care about what’s under the dial—not just the logo on it.

The Best Anti-magnetic Watches

You want the Milgauss functionality and story, but not a Rolex. Luckily, you’ve got options. The Omega Aqua Terra >15,000 Gauss is one of the best modern alternatives, we can get one for you at around €5.500. Grand Seiko’s anti-magnetic references, like the SBGR311, are sleeper picks with exceptional finishing and prices from €4.200. And then there’s the IWC Ingenieur, especially older references like the 3227, which offer magnetic resistance and Genta-designed DNA from around €6.000. Still, none of them wear quite like the Milgauss.

Why Collectors Love the Milgauss

Ask a few collectors and you’ll hear the same thing: “I wish I bought it when it was still under the radar.” The Milgauss is that kind of watch. It’s not a hype piece. It’s a grower. Something you come to appreciate once you’ve seen enough black dial Subs and the Rootbeer GMT's. The fact that it’s discontinued only adds to the appeal. It didn’t go out with a bang. It just disappeared, like a secret whispered between collectors. We still offer the Milgauss, no need to look further.

Under the Hood: Movement, Shielding, and a Few Hidden Surprises

Inside the 116400 series ticks Rolex’s Caliber 3131, a no-date automatic movement beating at 28.800 vibrations per hour with a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. It’s not just COSC-certified, it’s built for environments others avoid, featuring a paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring and housed inside a soft iron inner cage that neutralizes magnetic fields. There’s even a magnetic flux symbol engraved inside the caseback, a detail only visible to watchmakers and us nerdies. The Milgauss wasn’t just inspired by science, it was used in science. Early Ref. 1019 models, including the CERN variant, were made without luminous paint on the dial so they wouldn’t interfere with sensitive equipment. That sterile dial? It's not a flaw. It's intentional.

Which Milgauss Models Are Worth a Look?

If you’re looking at references, here’s a short watchlist: The Z-Blue is especially hot right now, with prices starting around €12.000, and likely to stay that way.

• Ref. 6541 – The original. Honeycomb dial, rotating bezel, and extremely rare.
• Ref. 1019 – Sleek, mid-century modern. Understated and clean.
• Ref. 116400 – The 2007 revival. Black or white dial, no green glass.
• Ref. 116400GV – The iconic modern version, with green glass and Z-Blue dial.

Final Thoughts

I’ve always had a soft spot for the Rolex Milgauss. It’s quirky, it’s clever, and it’s cooler than most people give it credit for. If you’ve never tried one on, do it. Feel the weight. Watch the light play off the green crystal. And tell me that isn’t one of the most underrated watches Rolex ever made. If you’re considering buying a Milgauss - especially the Z-Blue - we’ve got listings ready for you. You can find them right on our platform. And if you're looking to sell yours, or even trade it in toward something else, we’re happy to help. No pressure, just honest advice from people who live and breathe watches. Looking to get your hands on a Milgauss before prices go even higher? Check our current stock or drop us a message, we’re here to help.