The Watches of Special Agent 007 James Bond

Where it all started: Rolex Submariner 6538 (1962–1964)

The first James Bond story that made it out of the book, and into the film was ‘Dr. No’. In this movie 007 was played by Sean Connery. Sean definitely had some great taste for watches, because we can see him wearing the Rolex Submariner bearing the reference number 6538. This Rolex Submariner was one of the pieces that were produced without a crownguard. This specific Submariner 6538 is also called the ‘Big Crown’. Sean Connery wore the watch not on the original Oyster Bracelet, but on a striped NATO strap, pretty cool if you ask me! These Submariners come in different configurations, some with numerals at the 3, 6 and 9 o’clock position. The Submariner that was worn in the movie Dr. No was a ‘two-liner’, but this watch was also sold as a ‘four-liner’, which meant that the text ‘Officially Certified Chronometer’ featured under the Submariner text.  The Rolex Submariner 6538 was also seen in the movie’s that came after ‘Dr. No’. These were ‘From Russia with Love’ and ‘Goldfinger’. A pretty successful appearance of the Rolex Submariner 6538 if you ask me.

Breitling on the big screen: Breitling Top Time & Navitimer (1965)

After the Rolex Submariner, there was a search for a successor. The movie ‘Thunderbird’ asked for a watch that could act as a Geiger counter. A modified version of the Breitling Top Time was the watch of choice for James Bond. The normal Breitling Top Time had a pretty elegant but sporty design, this specific piece was modified with a huge Jumbo Case, to make it look more like a tool which could withstand a nuclear attack. The watch features a chronograph function because of the movement that it shared with the Breitling Navitimer which was also seen in ‘Thunderbird’. In this movie, the Breitling Top Time was worn on a bon-clip like steel bracelet. Little behind the scenes: There is a helicopter scene in Thunderbird where Sean Connery was spotted wearing a Rolex Datejust with a silver or white colored dial, which was not featured any further in the movie.

James bond wearing a GMT: Rolex GMT-Master ‘Pepsi’ (1967)

From the start of the James Bond movies, the production of the movie was done by Eon Productions. In 1967 Charles K. Feldman who acquired the rights to the production of the James Bond movie, could not come to an agreement with Eon Productions. With a lot of terrible reviews from the media the movie ‘Casino Royale’ can definitely be deemed as a success. The actor that played Agent 007 was David Niven. In this movie there is only one scene where we can see James Bond wearing a watch. James gets a call from Vesper Bond on his watch. While her face covers the dial, we can definitely spot a Rolex GMT-Master with a red-blue so-called ‘Pepsi’ bezel.

The subtility of Gruen: Gruen Precision 510 (1967-1971)

In the movies ‘You Only live Twice’ and ‘Diamonds Are Forever’ our special agent 007 was in need for a more subtle and elegant watch. As a special agent it is sometimes very important to hide in plain sight. A Breitling Top Time Geiger counter is not exactly that. That is why Sean Connery opted for a Gruen Precision 510 in these movies. This is a very subtle gold dress watch, that goes great with your suit. It is also believed to have featured in the movie ‘Dr. No’, in a scene at the baccarat table in the casino. The watch has been in production since the 1950’s, so this could very well be possible! 

Back to the Crown: Rolex Chronograph 6238 (1969)

The movie ‘On Her Majesty’s Secret Service’ which came out in the ‘Gruen Era’ obviously asked for a more Royal approach to the watch that was going to feature on the wrist of our Agent 007. This is probably the reason why a new Rolex watch was seen on the wrist of the new actor George Lazenby. This was the Rolex Chronograph with the reference number 6238. This watch is believed to be the predecessor of the now so popular Rolex Daytona. The watch made it all the way up to the Swiss-alps, where it was worn on the original Rolex Oyster bracelet.

Even more Rolex: Submariner 5513 (1973-1974)

In the movie ‘Live and Let Die’, and ‘The man with the Golden Gun’ it was again a watch of the Rolex catalogue that was seen on the wrist of the special agent. From now on it was Roger Moore as the James Bond actor. These movies were in need of a watch that could be worn sporty and dressy at the same time, hence they opted for yet another Rolex Submariner. This time a different reference, the Rolex Submariner ref. 5513. The Rolex Submariner No-date 5513 was yet another two-liner submariner. It seamed that this is a recipe for success!

The Seiko Era: LCD, Diver and Daydate (1977-1985)

From 1977 we could see Roger Moore wearing different Seiko watches. In the movie ‘The Spy Who Loved Me’ we could see him wear a quartz LCD watch, the Seiko 0674 LC. In the next movie ‘Moonraker’ an LCD watch was again the watch of choice. This time it was the Seiko M354 Memory Bank Calendar. In the next movie Roger Moore stepped away from the LCD watches, and wore a Seiko 7549-7009, also called the Seiko ‘Golden Tuna’. This was a very sporty diving watch. In the movie ‘Octopussy’ it was yet another Seiko LCD watch that was seen, this time the Seiko G757 Sports 100. Pretty daring design of you ask me. The last Seiko that we saw on Roger’s wrist was the Seiko 6923-8080. A classier and more timeless model with a day and date function, and a fluted bezel. Seiko decided to end their partnership on a more timeless and classier model then the Seiko’s worn before.

Yet unknown (1983)

In one of the non-Eon movies of the James Bond series ‘Never Say Never Again’ we see Sean Connery as the actor again. This time there was a watch worn that has yet to be identified. Some believe it to be yet another Seiko, but some identified it as a PVD coated Invicta. Unfortunately, we are not able to tell you a definitive answer. 

New bond, New watch: Tag-Heuer Night-Diver (1987)

In 1987 Roger Moore made its way for a new actor. This time it was Timothy Dalton who was our Special Agent in the movie ‘The Living Daylights’. This time it was a watch of the TAG-Heuer catalogue and as often seen before, yet another diver. It was a PVD coated TAG-Heuer Night-Diver. A very durable black diver with a bright dial with big luminescent markers. It unfortunately is not clear if the watch featured the older ‘Heuer’ logo, or the newer ‘TAG-Heuer’ logo. It was worn on a matching black jubilee strap.

The last of the lot: Rolex Submariner 16610 (1989)

With the Submariner 16610 Rolex had a more modern take on the durable diving watches of Rolex we have seen featured before in the James Bond movies. This time it was worn on the wrist of Timothy Dalton in the movie ‘License to Kill’. The Rolex Submariner 16610 marks Rolex’s their transition from acrylic glass to the sapphire crystal which is features now a days on Rolex their new watches.

Omega’s time to shine: The Omega Seamaster (1995-2022)

The first time a watch of the Omega catalogue was featured on the wrist of James Bond was in the movie ‘Goldeneye’. Our Special agent was this time played by Pierce Brosnan. The specific watch that was worn in this movie was the Omega Seamaster Professional 300m ref. 2541.80. This SMP 300m also goes under the nickname ‘Seamaster Goldeneye’. Next up in line was the newer reference of the SMP 300m. This was worn in the movies ‘Tomorrow Never Dies', ‘The World is Not Enough’ and ‘Die Another Day’. This watch is the Omega Seamaster Professional 300m ref. 2531.80. 

From 2006 Daniel Craig was the actor that played Special Agent 007. With a new actor, there also came a new watch. It was still an Omega Seamaster Professional 300m, but this time it had another reference number. This time it was the Omega Seamaster Professional 300m ref. 2220.80.00. Still featuring the recognizable bracelet and blue dial and bezel.

In the movies ‘Quantum of Solace’ and ‘Skyfall’ they decided to step away from the SMP 300m and instead opted for a Seamaster Planet Ocean. The even more durable variant of the Omega Seamaster. In ‘Quantum of Solace’ this was the Planet Ocean ref. 2201.50.00. In ‘Skyfall’ this was the newer Planet Ocean ref. 232.30.42.21.01.001. A pretty great choice!

While the Seamaster Planet Ocean was liked amongst many watch lovers, they did decide to move away from the Planet Ocean in 2015. In the movie ‘Spectre’ we could see Daniel Craig wear an Omega Seamaster 300. This was the Omega Seamaster 300 ‘Limited Edition Spectre’ ref. 233.32.31.41.21.01.001 on a striped NATO strap. In the last movie ‘No Time to Die’ where Daniel Craig was seen as our special agent, Omega featured yet another limited edition Seamaster 300, This time it was the Omega Seamaster ‘No Time To Die’ 007 Edition ref. 210.90.42.20.01.001. This time it was seen on a NATO strap and on a mesh bracelet. The Dial featured a Dirty Dozen logo, which was historically used on watches that were made for the British Ministry of Defence.

What’s next?

There have been seen many James Bond Watches in the huge series of James Bond movies. A lot of Rolex models featured, on the wrist of 007, and lately, the Omega Seamasters have been the watch of choice. With Daniel Craig ending his career as James Bond, what is there for us to expect for the next Agent 007? Is Omega still the watch of choice? Or are there any other contenders that we have not seen before? Only time will tell us.