Watches in Gold: From 24ct to gold plated, What are the differences?

18ct Gold: The purest form?

Is 18ct gold the purest form of gold in watches? Yes.. and No. The purest form of gold is 24ct gold. This consists of nothing else than just pure gold. The problem with this however, that it is too soft, and malleable to use in watches. That is why the purest carat of gold you might see in watches is 18k gold. 18ct gold consists of 75% gold and 25% of other metals. The reason gold is often mixed with other metals, is because of the softness, and the sheer cost of gold. 18ct gold also goes under the name 0.750 gold. This is often seen on hallmarks on the caseback, or on other parts of the watch. 18ct is also the standard on the newer Rolex models, that are sold in gold. 

18ct Gold: What does Rolex throw in the mix?

Rolex also sells pieces with different names and colours of gold. The examples are White Gold or Rose Gold. This just means that it consists of 75% pure gold, mixed with a specific type of metals, that give the special blend a specific tone of gold. White gold for instance, is a combination of 75% gold, silver, platinum, palladium and copper. These other metals take the gold form a more yellowish colour to more of a white sheen. Rose Gold is a more pinkish colour of gold. It consists of 75% gold, copper and platinum. The copper in this composition used to fade over time, that’s why Rolex changed up their Rose gold, and increased the percentage of platinum, to contradict the fading. This composition is what we call Everose Gold nowadays.

14ct Gold: The watchmakers choice for years

14ct gold was the popular choice for years. Because of the lower percentage of gold, 58.5%, the strength of this composition was perfect for watchmaking. 14ct gold, recognized by its 0.585 hallmark, can still show a rich colour of gold, but is sturdy and durable enough for the common use of watches. In older and vintage watches, the low- and mid-range watches where often produced with 14ct of gold. That is why vintage watches nowadays are often seen this way. Brands like Rolex, Omega and Patek Philippe sold watches with 14ct cases till the end of the 1970’s. From then, alloys or purer composites of gold gained their popularity.

9ct Gold: is this even gold?

9ct gold has been seen in watches as well. 9ct gold is a composition which only consists of 37.5%, and of pure gold. In countries like The Netherlands, and the United States, watches could only be sold as ‘Gold Watches’ from 10ct gold and upwards. Not all countries shared this opinion. In Germany, the UK, and other European countries 9ct watches could be sold als gold watches. These watches are not seen as often, and are not really as popular, because of the low percentage of pure gold. Watches that consist of 9ct gold often have a faded pinkish colour of gold, and are not as bright as higher carat gold composites.

Gold Capped and Gold Plated

 Both Gold Capped and Gold Plated watches involve a process where a layer of gold is applied to the surface of a base metal. However this is similar to both, there are distinctions between the two in terms of the thickness of the gold layer and the manufacturing process. Gold Capped watches, also known as Gold Filled watches, have a thicker layer of gold that is applied to the base metal. The difference is way of construction, is that the layer of gold is mechanically bonded to the surface of the base metal, usually through a process that involves pressure and heat. You can recognize a Gold-Filled/Gold-Capped watch by the backside of the watch case. The backside of the watch case should have a solid metal appearance instead of a gold colour. This is because the thin layer of metal is only applied on the front side of the watch. This is different compared to gold plating. 

Gold-plated watches have a thinner layer of gold applied to the surface of the base metal. The gold layer is typically deposited through processes like electroplating. When you are electroplating a metal, you submerge the piece of metal into a gold solution. When you load the piece of metal with an electric current, the surface of piece attracts gold particles from the solution, which leaves a thin layer, of only a few microns of gold on the surface. This thickness is usually 20 microns, which is 0.02 millimeters in thickness. Gold plated watches have a gold colour on all the sides of the watch case. Gold capped watches typically only have a gold colour on the front of the case. You can often see this on the backside of the caselugs. The thinner layer of gold when gold-plating, is also more sensitive to wear and tear, compared to the thicker layer of gold on gold capped watches.

Conclusion: Navigating the World of Gold Watches

In the captivating realm of timekeeping, gold watches shine as timeless symbols of elegance and craftsmanship. From the opulence of 24ct gold to the nuanced variations of white and rose gold, this exploration of different gold carats in watches unveils the rich history and evolution of these coveted timepieces. While 18ct gold reigns as a standard in modern luxury, Rolex's unique blends, such as Everose Gold, showcase the brand's commitment to innovation. The enduring appeal of 14ct gold, once a watchmaker's preferred choice, graces vintage timepieces from iconic brands like Rolex, Omega, and Patek Philippe. Even 9ct gold, though less common, finds its place in certain markets, adding a touch of gold's warmth to watches. Delving deeper into gold-capped and gold-plated watches, we discover the nuances in construction and durability, where thicker gold layers in gold-capped watches withstand the test of time compared to the more delicate gold-plated counterparts. As horology and craftsmanship continue to evolve, the allure of gold watches persists, encapsulating not just time but a legacy of artistry and refinement.