Cartier Tank Must

The Cartier Tank Must was born in the 1970s, when Cartier cleverly tapped into a younger, style-driven crowd. Luxury didn’t always need to mean solid gold: the maison introduced a more accessible take on its iconic Tank. Clean lines, minimalist dials, and that unmistakable rectangular case gave the Must instant cult status. While the classic Tank often sat far beyond reach, the Must landed at a friendlier entry point. Today, you’ll find them starting around €2.500. It was Cartier’s way of making the dream a little more democratic without losing the allure.

Here’s where the Tank Vermeil comes in. Vermeil doesn’t describe a model, but a material: sterling silver covered with a layer of gold. Many Must de Cartier pieces fall into that category, making them “Tank Must Vermeil,” yet not every Must is automatically a Vermeil. The Must is the umbrella collection, spanning different finishes and designs, while Vermeil refers specifically to that gold-over-silver construction. Think of it this way: a Vermeil can be a Must, but a Must doesn’t always wear the Vermeil jacket.