Breguet Type XX - XXI - XXII

Breguet Type XX, Type XXI, Type XXII

If you want a clean line from cockpit grit to cocktail polish, Breguet’s Type XX family draws it with authority. Born from the French Air Force and French Naval Aviation need for a reliable tool, the watches trace back to the postwar 1950s Type 20 specification, a military brief that demanded a flyback chronograph, crisp legibility, and accuracy under pressure. The result was a pilot’s watch that did not just time missions; it helped define a category.

Decades later the story widened. Civilian models arrived in the 1990s revival with the Type XX Aéronavale and Type Transatlantique, keeping the military spirit but adding modern luxury touchpoints. The Type XXI followed in the 2000s with broader functionality for travel and everyday wear. The Type XXII landed in the 2010s as the high-frequency outlier, a statement on precision that folded silicon technology into the aviation DNA. Same lineage, different tempos, and a consistent through line of purpose-built design.

Design identity and materials

At heart this is a sports watch with pilot priorities: large luminous hands and luminescent markers, a matte or lightly textured dial designed to be read at a glance, and a bi-directional rotating bezel for quick timing. Sapphire crystal on top keeps the view sharp. Many civilian references add a sapphire exhibition case back so you can see the self-winding movement at work, a reminder that this is both a tool and a piece of quiet theater.

Cases arrive primarily in stainless steel for daily wear, with rose gold and yellow gold options for warmth, and select references in platinum for stealth luxury. Titanium appears occasionally on modern pieces where weight matters. The Type XX typically wears more compact, the Type XXI steps up wrist presence, and the Type XXII grows again to house its high-frequency caliber. You will see leather and alligator straps with deployant clasps, plus steel bracelets and, on precious metal models, matching gold bracelets that lean into the collection’s elevated side.

Movements and why they matter

The signature is a flyback chronograph, also called an instantaneous reset. Press one pusher and the chronograph seconds hand snaps to zero and restarts, a function that made sense for military timing and still satisfies today. Expect small seconds plus a 30-minute counter and 12-hour counter on many references, along with a date display on numerous civilian models. Several Type XXI references add a 24-hour indication for day-and-night context, and select pieces provide a GMT or dual time zone function for frequent flyers.

Under the hood, automatic movement architecture rules the line. The Type XXII pushed the conversation forward with high frequency, 5 Hz appears in some contexts and the headline 10 Hz on dedicated Type XXII references, paired with a silicon escapement and silicon balance spring. The goal is precision, with reduced friction and stable performance under magnetism and temperature swings. Many models offer a screw-down crown and 100-meter water resistance, practical for a sports chronograph that moves from boardroom to weekend.

Variations at a glance

• Type XX, often tagged Aéronavale for a cleaner dial, and Type Transatlantique with an added date display, both rooted in the Type 20 specification.
• Type XXI, broader wrist stance, bi-directional rotating bezel, flyback chronograph with 24-hour indication on select references.
• Type XXII, high-frequency movement with silicon escapement and silicon balance spring, designed for fast-beat precision at up to 10 Hz.
• Materials across the family include stainless steel, rose gold, yellow gold, platinum, and occasional titanium, paired to leather, alligator, steel bracelet, or gold bracelet.

Popular reference numbers within the collection

• Ref. 3800, Type XX Aéronavale and Type Transatlantique, seen as 3800ST in stainless steel, 3800BA in gold, 3800PT in platinum.
• Ref. 3810, Type XXI, seen as 3810ST, 3810BA, 3810PT.
• Ref. 3880, Type XXII, seen as 3880ST, 3880BA, 3880PT.

Dial and index language

The family privileges clarity. Expect high-contrast printing, lume-heavy markers for dark conditions, and balanced subdials that keep central minutes and seconds easy to track. If you are coming from dress pieces, think of this as a refined aviation watch that still reads in a blink, even at night.

Positioning and collectability

Within the brand’s portfolio the Type XX line sits as a luxury sports chronograph with deep heritage. Steel often forms the entry point for civilian models on the pre-owned market, while gold and platinum carry premiums. The Type XXII and any high-frequency or limited configuration sit higher due to technical ambition. Many pieces are primarily found pre-owned today, and interest remains strong among collectors who value provenance. Vintage examples tied to military service are a heritage story in their own right, while civilian models deliver daily versatility with a clear link to history.

Quick spec highlights

• Pilot’s watch lineage, military roots, flyback chronograph with instantaneous reset.
• Automatic movement with small seconds, 30-minute counter, and 12-hour counter.
• Bi-directional rotating bezel, date display on many civilian models, 24-hour indication and GMT or dual time zone on select references.
• High-frequency movement on Type XXII, up to 10 Hz, plus silicon escapement and silicon balance spring.
• Sapphire crystal, optional exhibition back, screw-down crown on many references, up to 100-meter water resistance, and luminescent hands and markers.

Looking for the one that fits your rhythm? Type XX if you want straight-shot heritage. Type XXI if you like a little more presence and utility. Type XXII if you want the laboratory-grade beat rate wrapped in flight-jacket cool.