Limited and special edition watches are now a strategic play by many manufacturers, with the approach becoming more of a marketing technique than an authentic marking of an occasion. There are even some houses that have built brands using this approach. However, in the final stages of the 20th century, Patek Philippe released 35 editions of a Calatrava that may represent the zenith of special editions. Released to commemorate 150 years of the London-based retailer Harrods, this 3923R has fine characteristics for a deserved lap of honour of this special neo-vintage reference.

Being released in the final year of the 3923's lifespan, the appeal of this swansong edition is apparent, with its sophisticated 31.5mm case rendered in 18k pink gold. A stepped bezel and curved lugs represent the extent of this amorphous case's defining features; with the Calatrava, it's all about what the watch doesn't have than what it does. The caseback of this 3923R is closed and includes an engraving of the Harrods logo along with ‘1849 - 1999 Celebrating 150 years XX/35'. While the case form of what constitutes a Calatrava is necessary, how the dial is executed, and its lack of complication is where the true charming spirit resides.