A ladies’ watch fit for real men

To give some background on the watch often nicknamed Etrier—and sometimes even Hermès—it helps to start with the origin of these names.

Etrier is the French word for a horse’s stirrup, a reference to the distinctive lug shape that resembles them. Importantly, this nickname did not originate from the watch brands themselves. Today, the term Etrier is most commonly associated with the iconic models produced by Jaeger-LeCoultre, even though the name was applied retrospectively by collectors.

The Hermès association comes from the fact that Hermès retailed these Jaeger LeCoultre watches in their boutiques. Given Hermès’ deep connection to equestrian culture, leather goods, and horse-inspired jewellery, the design became closely linked to the brand in the public imagination, despite not being manufactured by Hermès themselves.

Jaeger-LeCoultre already produced Etrier-shaped watches in the 1930s, but the design truly gained popularity in the 1970s. Alongside JLC, other manufacturers explored the same form, including Baume & Mercier. Unlike many cases where distinctive designs were imitated by lower-tier brands, Baume & Mercier, the sister brand of Piaget, delivered watches of excellent construction and finish.

And that brings us to this example seen in multiple Baume & Mercier advertisements from 1967.

A small dial paired with a surprisingly substantial case volume gives the watch strong wrist presence, making it equally wearable for both men and women. It is a piece that challenges traditional size expectations while remaining elegant and balanced.

This watch is very well preserved, showing honest signs of history while retaining its original shapes and finishes. The dial displays light patina, yet all printing remains crisp and clearly legible. Fully serviced, it is ready for its next wrist.

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Brand: Baume & Mercier
Model: “Etrier”
Reference: 38194
Year: 1967
Material: 18k Yellow Gold
Dimensions: 22mm x 35mm diameter (without crown)
Crystal: Acrylic
Caliber: Baume & Mercier BM 500
Bracelet/Strap: Leather period correct strap