Descrição original

We do not want to raise the topic again of which of the two Submariner versions is more attractive, "more sub," etc. – we will only mention that the original is without a date, and this particular model, in our opinion, is much more balanced due to the absence of the cyclops and the date on the dial. The model presented here is from the latest, current Submariner series, introduced by the brand in 2020, and caused quite a bit of controversy among the brand's admirers, mainly due to the change in the case size.

We are sure that most readers are aware that Rolex calls its water-resistant cases Oyster. I.e., if this name is present in the watch's name, it means it is water-resistant. And of course, the Submariner meets this qualification 100% – developed as a diver's watch in the 50s, today the Submariner offers water resistance of 300 m. Despite the fact that more than 60 years have passed since the model's launch, the differences in appearance between the modern and the original are not very significant. But, as you might guess, all of this is only at first glance...

The watch's dial is very clean and easily legible, and the luminescence of the hands and indices facilitates its use at night as well. The luminescence is blue (which is proven to be much more pleasant and harmless to the human eye), and the so-called Chromalight used by Rolex allows the indices to appear milky white during the day. Here, Rolex also uses the so-called "Maxi dial" style, which was launched at the beginning of the century and with which the manufacturer increased the size of the hands and markers – one of the reasons we like this model much more than the previous ones.

Despite the fact that the Submariner is a professional tool, as was the manufacturer's intention from its very launch, it is clear to everyone that for a long time now it has become a luxury attribute. This function has long prevailed over the original reason for its creation. Perhaps for this very reason, Rolex does many things in this model in such a way that the appearance and overall impression prevail over pure functionality. The first thing that makes an impression is the sapphire – Rolex applies the anti-reflective coating on the inner side of the crystal, but not on the outer, which allows the outer part to be more brilliant and aesthetically attractive.

For the case back of the watch, Rolex uses a simple solid case back (as, by the way, with all its models) – in the case of the Submariner, it is devoid of any markings, inscriptions, or other "decorations." As we all know, for its watches Rolex uses noble 904L steel – the difference with the usual 316L for other brands is the greater resistance, especially against salt water. It is a widely known fact that Rolex can be called fanatics regarding the materials used – a large part of the metallurgical processes are carried out in-house to ensure uniform quality of the raw material. Many watches have passed through our hands, but we can say with absolute certainty that few brands devote so much attention and effort to the quality of the final product, especially regarding the finish of the cases.

The overall impression is complemented by the watch's diver's bezel – its purpose is clear: to time dives underwater. In previous Sub models, the bezel insert was made of aluminum with minute indices printed on it, but this model introduces the ceramic bezel. The material is again specially crafted and is different from those in mass use, which is why Rolex calls it "Cerachrom." The traditional "pip" at 12 o'clock is preserved and the end result is evident – the ceramic bezel is shinier, stronger, and significantly more scratch-resistant.

The important question, in fact, is what are the differences between the new version of the Submariner presented today and the previous one – 114060. The first significant difference is the movement – the new Submariner has the honor of carrying caliber 3230 within it, which offers an increased power reserve of 70 hours, a significantly improved automatic winding system where the rotor is now on a ball bearing, and efficiency is increased by 15%. As for the lubrication, the reversing wheels – one of the problematic areas from the point of view of friction – are Teflon-coated. The new 3230 has 14 patents and more than 90% new components, and is also twice as accurate as the requirements for a COSC chronometer.

The most visible difference is the wider bracelet with its larger folding clasp. As a result of this change, the proportions are more harmonious, as the feeling of "protruding" lugs relative to the bracelet is now gone. The end links of the bracelet no longer extend above the lugs – something that had always seemed strange to us in the previous version as well. Overall, the bracelet has been redesigned to be more flexible and comfortable, and the total number of links has been reduced by one compared to the previous model.

And of course, the biggest difference is in the case size – for the first time, Rolex has allowed itself to increase the classic size of the Submariner to 41 mm. Some might say the difference is minimal, but we can assure you that when placing the two models side by side, the differences are clearly visible.

For many years, the Submariner has been offered with a three-piece steel bracelet with a profile that tapers towards the clasp – with this model, the tradition is preserved, and the bracelet remains extremely comfortable. The main difference is in the clasp – the new Submariner is equipped with a micro-adjustment system called Glidelock. It allows for precise adjustment of the bracelet's size on the fly, which is extremely useful, as our wrists change their circumference depending on temperature and conditions.

Indeed, in the 50s, Rolex created an exceptional product and invested the following decades in perfecting it. If in the beginning it was perceived as a relatively affordable tool watch, today the Submariner is to a much greater extent a luxury attribute. At the same time, it possesses all the qualities to be a long-term partner to its owner – a timepiece that will not only not let you down, but will also retain its value over time. And last but not least – it looks equally good with a formal suit as it does with casual clothes, and in any case will attract admiring glances.